Switzerland by Rail: Lakes, Mountains & the Glacier Express

Fly to Zürich and continue by rail to Montreux, where Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic overlooks Lake Geneva towards the Alps.

Explore the UNESCO-listed vineyard terraces of Lavaux, visit Chillon Castle and wander through Montreux's Old Town before returning to the lakefront towards evening. For a long lunch, La Terrasse du Petit Palais at Fairmont Le Montreux Palace is one of our preferred tables, with an open-air terrace overlooking the lake.

Continue by rail into car-free Zermatt, where three nights leave time to explore far beyond the village. Take the Gornergrat Railway to 3,089 metres for a panorama encompassing 29 peaks above 4,000 metres, or follow the summer trails between mountain lakes and hamlets beneath the Matterhorn.

Lunch at Chez Vrony is a Zermatt ritual. Set at 2,100 metres in the tiny hamlet of Findeln, its terrace has one of the most coveted views of the Matterhorn in the Alps. Generations of the Julen family are behind it, with organic beef from their own cattle, homemade sausages and mountain cheeses served alongside a polished wine list. Arrive on foot from Sunnegga and settle in for the afternoon.

Settle into the panoramic carriage of the Glacier Express for one of Europe's great railway journeys. Over eight hours, the train crosses 291 bridges, threads through the Rhine Gorge and sweeps across the Landwasser Viaduct before reaching the Engadin.

Lunch is served at the seat as the scenery continually changes outside, from the high valleys of Valais to the landscapes of Graubünden. By late afternoon, the journey reaches St. Moritz, where grand hotels and Belle Époque façades line the mountainside above the lake.

St. Moritz has been drawing Europe's summer society to the Engadin since the 19th century, and beneath the grand hotels lies one of Switzerland's most beautiful mountain landscapes. Ride the historic funicular to Muottas Muragl for views across the Upper Engadin lakes, or spend the day around St. Moritz, Silvaplana and Sils.

St. Moritz has a strong dining scene beyond its grand hotels. Hanselmann is the classic stop for coffee and Engadiner Nusstorte, while Hatecke brings together a butcher's shop and contemporary bistro specialising in superb Swiss meats. For dinner, La Scarpetta is one of the addresses we like to know about: small, stylish and particularly good for handmade pasta and an excellent wine list.

Travel by rail to Thalwil for two nights directly on Lake Zürich at Alex Lake Zürich. In summer, the lake and clear waters of the Limmat become part of everyday city life, from swimming and paddleboarding to ferries crossing between the waterfront towns.

Spend time in Zürich's Old Town or head to Uetliberg for views across the city and lake. For dinner, Kronenhalle has been a Zürich institution since 1924, with works by Miró, Chagall and Bonnard hanging above tables serving classic Swiss cooking. For contemporary fine dining, The Counter offers a very different experience. Chef Mitja Birlo’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant seats just 23 guests around an open kitchen, with a multi-course tasting menu served directly across the counter. 

Travel by rail to Zürich Airport for the return flight home.