Rwanda: Into the Virungas

Arrive into Kigali and transfer privately to The Retreat. Clean, green and remarkably calm, Rwanda’s capital offers a gentle introduction to the country before the wilderness that follows.

Spend the afternoon exploring Kigali’s creative and culinary scene or simply relaxing at the hotel. The following morning begins with a visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial, providing important context for understanding modern Rwanda and the extraordinary transformation that has followed.

Travel east into Akagera National Park, where Rwanda’s hills gradually open into a landscape of grassland, lakes and acacia woodland. Once on the brink of disappearance, wildlife has returned in remarkable numbers, transforming Akagera into one of Africa’s most compelling conservation successes.

Staying at Wilderness Magashi Peninsula, days revolve around expertly guided game drives and boat safaris. Lions patrol the plains, elephants emerge from woodland and hippos gather in the waterways. The experience feels notably different to the great safari circuits further south — quieter, more exclusive and wonderfully uncrowded. Evenings are spent overlooking Lake Rwanyakazinga, where wildlife often appears directly from camp as the light fades across the water.

A helicopter flight carries you across Rwanda’s rolling hills and valleys towards Nyungwe Forest. One of Africa’s oldest rainforests, it  stretches across a series of forested mountains where chimpanzees, monkeys and countless bird species thrive beneath the canopy. Early mornings are spent tracking chimpanzees with specialist guides, following their calls through dense vegetation before observing them high among the trees.

Another day is devoted to the canopy walkway, suspended above the forest floor and offering a rare perspective across the rainforest itself. Between activities, One&Only Nyungwe House provides an exceptional base overlooking tea plantations and forest-covered hills.

Continue north through Rwanda’s mountains towards Volcanoes National Park. The scenery becomes increasingly dramatic as volcanic peaks rise above farmland and bamboo forest, forming one of Africa’s most recognisable wilderness landscapes.

Staying at Wilderness Bisate, the focus turns to the experiences that have made Rwanda famous. One morning is dedicated to gorilla trekking, setting out with trackers before hiking through forest in search of a habituated family group. 

A mother gorilla holding her infant close. Juveniles tumbling through the undergrowth. A silverback sitting quietly just metres away. These are the moments that stay with you long after the trek itself has ended.

Today introduces you to another of the region's rare residents during a golden monkey trek. The remainder of your time is left intentionally open to enjoy Bisate itself. The lodge has become one of Africa's most celebrated safari properties, known as much for its setting and conservation work as its access to the gorillas. 

Walk through the reforestation nursery with resident guides, learn about the restoration of this once-degraded landscape, or simply watch the shifting light move across the volcanic peaks from your villa. After the anticipation of the trek, these quieter moments often become some of the most memorable.

A final morning overlooking the Virunga volcanoes before returning to Kigali for your onward flight.